Climbing Kilimanjaro

In March 2009, I travelled to Tanzania, East Africa to trek the 9-day Lemosho Route to Kilimanjaro’s summit. These excerpts are from my manuscript, 'Life and Death on Kilimanjaro.'

Push: Stella Point to Uhuru Peak to Crater Camp

Lying in the pitch black of my domed tent, deep in the frigid crater of Mt. Kilimanjaro, I felt wretched: nauseous. I had a pounding headache. An overall feeling of pressure threatened to explode my body. It was hard to breathe. What was wrong? Suddenly, I knew. Altitude. The dreaded mountain sickness.

Down: From Crater Camp to Mweka Camp

I shouldered my heavy pack feeling dizzy and weak. I had no appetite and no energy for the four-hour trek that would get us to lunch. Just two more days: dual marathons. As I reached for my trusted poles, my pulse throbbed and my breathing intensified like an asthma attack. Movement made my lungs beg for air. I stood motionless, praying for equilibrium. I wanted to leave Crater Camp—now. But, something was holding me back.

Down: From Crater Camp to Mweka Camp

“Pole, pole,” Julius reminded us to walk slowly.

I took another step, willing my exhausted body to move forward. Dad’s gold watch, deep in my pant’s pocket, banged my right leg with alternating steps. Left, pound. Its presence brought me comfort. Left, pound. With each measured step, a rhythm developed. Left, pound. Left, pound. Left, pound. The cadence lulled my weary mind.